Hiking in the Footsteps of the Incas: A Super Cool Adventure!

When I finally made up my mind to visit Peru, there was one thing I was dead - set on. I wanted to hike with the same company that my buddy Mark Adams, who's also a travel writer, used for his book Turn Right at Machu Picchu. The amazing stories he told me about his treks and all the cool things he learned during them? They totally convinced me that these were the folks I wanted to show me around the Sacred Valley. I mean, who wouldn't want their own Indiana - Jones - like moment, just me, the wild outdoors, and a local guide?

So, I shot an email to Amazonas Explorer. They're all about private tours and off - the - beaten - path hikes in the Sacred Valley. I wanted to see if I could book something with them. Now, I knew a private tour was gonna cost more than a regular group trip, but the idea of going at my own pace and having my very own guide was super appealing. And then, when the owner, Paul, said a few people from the Amazonas office would be joining, I was like, "Sweet! I'll be hiking with locals, not just on some touristy group thing."

I wasn't up for the full Inca Trail. I didn't have enough time, I wasn't feeling super fit, and let's be real, I absolutely loathe camping. So, I went for the famous KM104 hike instead. It starts at this marker named KM104 (it's 104 km from Cusco, an exit point on the train line from Ollantaytambo to Machu Picchu). The hike takes you through the Sacred Valley and a few Incan sites before connecting with the main Inca Trail that leads to Machu Picchu.

Paul emailed me, "We'll be at your hotel in Cusco at 4:30 am to pick you up so we can catch the train."

A 4:30 am pickup meant a 3:30 am wake - up call. And there was no way I was down for that.

"Can we go later?" I asked. "I'm solo here after all."

"Nope," Paul replied. "We have to catch the 6:45 am train from Ollantaytambo, which is two hours from Cusco. And we can't be late. We've got a tight schedule. Sorry!"

But then, there was an option B! Instead of waking up in the middle of the night, I decided to head to Ollantaytambo the day before. That way, I could sleep in until just before the train. I mean, Indiana Jones might be able to find artifacts on hardly any sleep, but I sure can't.

Ollantaytambo was once a major Incan city. It's located on the Urubamba River, up against some high mountains. The extensive ruins there offer some seriously beautiful views of the valley. Sounded way better than waking up early to me. So, I got there in the midafternoon, explored the ruins, packed my day bags, and relaxed a bit before the hike.

(Tip: Don't go when I did! Get there early to avoid the afternoon crowds coming from Cusco. And bring a TON of sunscreen because there's no shade! But the ruins are really gorgeous and give you a taste of what's to come.)

That evening, I chilled at El Albergue, this super cute boutique hotel right next to the train station. It couldn't have been more convenient - you just walk out the door and you're on the train! I stuffed myself with carbs from food straight from the garden, packed my bags, and hit the sack early in the comfiest bed of the whole trip.

I woke up at a much more reasonable 5:45 am, met my guide, Efrain, and we hopped on the train to Machu Picchu. We were gonna get off at KM104 and meet up with Katy and Lourdes, the two others from the Amazonas office who were joining us.

As the train wound through the valley, the staff served us coca tea to help with the altitude. It's a traditional indigenous cure for altitude sickness in the area (yep, it's also the plant they get cocaine from). Not only does it actually work, but it has this really earthy, herbal taste that I'd grown to love.

As I sipped my tea, Efrain and I went over the plans for the next two days and got to know each other. He's a local, and he's been a guide for over twenty years. He's funny, and he knows everything about the region's plants, animals, and Incan history. He used to lead a lot of group tours, but now he mostly does private ones with Amazonas.

When we got off the train, we met Katy and Lourdes. Katy had hiked this route a bunch of times - she used to be a guide. But it was Lourdes's first time, and she was just as nervous as I was about being able to handle the physical part. We bonded over that in my broken Spanish.

After checking in at the ticket control, we started our 12 - km (7.5 - mile) hike up to Machu Picchu. The first part followed the Urubamba River, which snakes through the whole Sacred Valley, eventually flowing around Machu Picchu and then north, where it joins up with a few other rivers. Decades ago, they diverted the river's powerful waters near the ancient city to build a hydroelectric power plant that supplies most of the electricity to the region.

The sun was beating down on us as we hiked up the exposed side of the mountain. All you could hear was our conversation and the river below. The climb was just one long upward path, with some really steep bits and stairs, and there were Incan trails and ruins all along the way. Between the sun and the altitude, it was way harder than I thought. I work out and think I'm in decent shape, but I found myself taking a lot of breaks. I was so glad we could hike at my pace. The route was also full of tour groups, and we'd pass each other as everyone stopped for breaks at different points.

"Anyone who wants to hike to Machu Picchu but doesn't want to do the full trek has to hike this path," Efrain explained.

"So, these tour groups will be with us the whole way?" I asked as I watched one pass us during a break.

"Yup! And probably tomorrow too if they're visiting the ruins," he said.

As we got closer to the cloud forest (a really moist rainforest with a constant layer of clouds or mist) and the ruins that marked our halfway point, the trail started getting narrower as it cut across the side of the mountain. The gentle ground next to us gave way to some seriously sheer drops.

"By the way," I said when I noticed this, "I'm terrified of heights and sheer drops. Will the trail get wider soon?"

"You'll be fine," he assured me.

"Hmmm, that's not really an answer," I replied.

As we walked, I hugged the mountain, trying not to look to the side, super grateful we were going at my pace again.

Slowly but surely, we made our way up the narrow, winding trail. All of a sudden, the dry, exposed trail was shaded by trees, the air cooled down, and we started hearing waterfalls. Efrain pointed out some native orchids as we climbed higher (we were always going up, up, up!) to the Incan site of Wiñay Wayna.

Not much is known about Wiñay Wayna, except that it was probably an experimental agricultural place. Soil samples showed remnants of fruits and plants that aren't native to the region and don't grow at this altitude. So, it's a safe bet that this was an area for agricultural experiments (the Incas did a lot of that). The temples and houses in the upper part all had these amazing balconies with views of the valley that I'm sure people would kill for today. I thought about some Inca, centuries ago, looking at the same view after a hard day's work. I wonder if he enjoyed it as much as I did. Probably, since loving nature is something that goes beyond time and culture.

From there, we had a quick lunch and then continued on to Machu Picchu. As the clouds rolled in, I picked up the pace, hoping the weather would clear. Along the way, Efrain pointed out all the orchid species, but I was focused on getting to the famous Sun Gate before the clouds blocked my view.

The Sun Gate is the main entrance that overlooks Machu Picchu. They think the steps were a control gate for people going in and out of the city, probably guarded by the Incan military. And because of its location on a ridge on the southeast, the rising sun passes through the gate every year on the summer solstice (hence the name).

"We might need to sacrifice to the gods," Katy joked when she saw how nervous I was. "Maybe that'll help!"

Efrain, turning to Lourdes, said, "It might have to be you, since we can't sacrifice Matt!" That had us all cracking up.

"Okay, well, I'm gonna run, 'cause I can't miss this. You've all seen it before," I shouted as I ran the last part of the trail to the Sun Gate.

I got there just in time to see Machu Picchu before the clouds rolled in. It was like a magical view. There it was, the thing I'd been dreaming of my whole life! It was just as amazing as I thought it would be. And even though the clouds hid the mountains and some of the structures, there was still this otherworldly feeling.

Efrain and the others showed up eventually. We made friends with a family from California as we all waited for glimpses of Machu Picchu through the clouds, getting our cameras ready for those brief seconds before the mist hid it again.

As much as I could have stayed longer, Efrain said it was time to keep moving. So, we continued down the trail to the ruins, and I got a close - up view of Machu Picchu through the clouds from a viewpoint overlooking the city.

"Tomorrow, we'll explore those areas," Efrain said, pointing to areas around the historic site. "But right now, it's time to check into the hotel."

Early the next day, Efrain and I headed back to the ancient site. Katy and Lourdes had gone back to Cusco. (These days, to control the crowds, there are three routes to choose from, but each needs a separate ticket. We took the one with the most buildings.)

Machu Picchu, known as "the Lost City of the Incas," is one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. It was built around 1450 CE during Emperor Pachacuti's reign as his royal estate. It had a bunch of purposes, like religious, agricultural, and administrative. They built it there because the Incas could get the stone locally, so they didn't have to haul any building materials over the mountains.

It was lived in for 50 years and was still being built when it was finally abandoned because of the Spanish conquest. Machu Picchu was pretty much unknown until 1911 when American historian Hiram Bingham III rediscovered it. He was looking for the famous "Lost City of the Incas," which was supposed to be their last hideout full of gold (but it's actually thought to be Vilcabamba).

Efrain gave me such a detailed history that it felt like I had a professor with me. He pointed out how the Incas used different building techniques to make sure there was good drainage from all the rain, and he went on about theories of what each building was used for. He also filled me in on modern politics, telling me there's still a lot of the historic area that hasn't been excavated or restored because of funding problems and corruption. I was totally absorbed in his descriptions and in awe of how innovative Inca engineering was. They totally mastered the mountains and did it with style and beauty. I wish I could have seen Machu Picchu at its prime. What a sight that must have been!

After a half - day of exploring (and wishing I had more time to do the other routes), it was time to take the train back to Ollantaytambo and Cusco. I'd finally seen one of the most iconic sites in human history. It felt so surreal to have been there. And the hike, even though it was tough, was totally incredible. As I closed my eyes to rest on the way back, I was stoked that I finally got to see something I'd wanted to see since I was a kid.

About the Tour Company

Amazonas Explorer mostly does private tours, but they also have some larger group options. Whether you're with a group or flying solo, check them out. (They're in the book Turn Right at Machu Picchu, which is why I picked them.) They also do trips to other ruins in the region and will take you to places most tourists don't go.

Note 1: Seriously, everything's an Inca trail. The Incas built over 40,000 km of roads, so you can think of any of those as an "Inca trail." But for this story, when I say the Inca Trail, I mean the popular multiday hike that leads to Machu Picchu that everyone talks about.

Note 2: Efrain was Mark's guide in the book too.

Book Your Trip to Peru: Logistical Tips and Tricks

Book Your Flight

Use Skyscanner to find a cheap flight. They're my favorite search engine 'cause they search websites and airlines all over the world. You know you're not missing any deals.

Book Your Accommodation

You can book your hostel with Hostelworld. They've got the biggest selection and the best deals. If you want to stay somewhere other than a hostel, use Booking.com. They always have the cheapest rates for guesthouses and budget hotels.

If you're looking for hostels in nearby Cusco, here's a list of my favorites.

Don't Forget Travel Insurance

Travel insurance will protect you from illness, injury, theft, and cancellations. It's like a safety net in case anything goes wrong. I never travel without it 'cause I've had to use it a bunch of times. My favorite companies that offer great service and value are:

• Safety Wing (good for everyone)

• Insure My Trip (for those over 70)

• Medjet (for extra evacuation coverage)

Looking for the Best Companies to Save Money With?

Check out my resource page for the best companies to use when you travel. I list all the ones I use to save money on the road. They'll help you save too.

Want More Information on Peru?

Be sure to visit my super - detailed destination guide on Peru for even more planning tips!